The French Pyrenees became something like a second home for us. A place where you spot free-grazing animals around every mountain bend, and home to the best local pastries and cheese.
This blog is a collection of our personal experiences and things we wanted to share: a subjective, incomplete guide to these magnificent mountains. Think of it not as a definitive bible, but as an open invitation to explore.
THE HIGH PASSES
Col du Tourmalet
If we had to pick only one mountain to climb, and had good legs that day, this would be it. This giant towers at an altitude of 2,115 metres and offers a proper big mountain experience. The key to it is pacing, ensuring you have enough left in the tank as you approach the altitude and the tougher gradients near the summit. This is also where the real beauty strikes. As with almost every climb in the area, be extra careful for animals crossing the roads. Our favourite side to ascend is Luz-Saint-Sauveur purely because of the scenery.
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Luz-Saint-Sauveur side: 19 km at an average gradient of 7.4%
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Sainte-Marie-de-Campan side: 17.2 km at an average gradient of 7.4%
Col d'Aspin
This is our number one climb for a more relaxed day. The side from Sainte-Marie-de-Campan is so smooth that you tend to forget you are even climbing. Meanwhile, the Arreau side is far more picturesque and easily our favourite descent, though both sides offer awesome downhills. It is hard to pick an absolute favourite, actually.
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Sainte-Marie-de-Campan side: 12.8 km at an average gradient of 5.1%
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Arreau side: 12 km at an average gradient of 6.5%
Col du Soulor and Col d'Aubisque
Unique from a scenery perspective, these two should definitely be done together, carrying you across the dramatic balcony road of the Cirque du Litor. We much prefer climbing from the Argelès-Gazost side, as the Laruns side feels too much like a main road with less scenic views. If you start from Argelès-Gazost, you can combine this route with the Col de Spandelles. Just remember to pack plenty of water, as water stops are scarce on this particular route. We loved stopping at the snack bar on top of Col du Soulor before pushing on to Col d'Aubisque. There, we ate what was certainly the best cheese baguette of our lives. The cheese is made right there on the mountain from sheep happily running everywhere, which made us tremendously happy, and the baguette tasted even better for it.
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Argelès-Gazost side (via Soulor to Aubisque): 30 km at an average gradient of 4.3%
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Laruns side (directly up Aubisque): 16.6 km at an average gradient of 7.2%
Col de Spandelles
A narrow, rugged pass that often stays under the radar, offering a quiet and peaceful alternative to the busier valleys. Featuring a rough road surface, short pitches of steep gradients, and dense forested sections, it links Argeles-Gazost to Arthez-d'Asson. It pairs brilliantly with the Soulor and Aubisque loop for an extra technical challenge.
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Argelès-Gazost side: 15.5 km at an average gradient of 6.0%
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Ferrières side: 10.3 km at an average gradient of 8.3%
Hourquette d'Ancizan
We probably camped on this mountain most frequently. There is something magical about looking over the valley with animals everywhere and catching the sunset view of Col du Tourmalet and the Pic du Midi in the distance. Make no mistake, choosing the right side of the climb matters here. We much prefer climbing from Sainte-Marie-de-Campan. Having tackled the Ancizan side twice, we did not have a great time on either instance.
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Sainte-Marie-de-Campan side: 17 km at an average gradient of 4.5%
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Ancizan side: 9.6 km at an average gradient of 7.5%
Col de Portet
Probably the biggest surprise of the trip. The climb has two distinct personalities. The first bit can be quite discouraging as you grind up tough gradients along a main road with no views. Everything changes once you hit the ski village and turn left onto the actual Portet ascent. You are met with small roads, closed to cars when we visited, and epic views. It was just us, cows, marmots, and eagles. It felt completely peaceful, making it one of our favourite surprises, and we are glad we did not give up early on.
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Saint-Lary-Soulan side: 17.8 km at an average gradient of 7.9%
Pastoral Zones and Respect for Nature
Zone Pastorale: Animaux en Liberté
When riding through the Pyrenees, you will frequently pass signs reading "Zone Pastorale: Animaux en Liberté". This means you are sharing the road with free-roaming cattle, horses, donkeys, and sheep. Always slow down on descents through these zones, keep a wide berth around livestock, and anticipate sudden movements. They will reward you with occasional ¨ready to cuddle¨ gesture.
Leave No Trace
There is something special about how clean the mountain passes and campsites are out here. It is a living, breathing testament to the care people show for these environments. To us, leaving no trace is not about following a strict set of rules, it is just basic respect for the places that give us so much joy. Pack out what you pack in, leave the roads as pristine as you found them, and let the landscape stay wild for the next person.
Recovery Loops and Local Stops
Recovery Rides
With so many amazing cols and deep valleys, finding flat or easy recovery rides can be a bit of a challenge, but they do exist. The rolling, quieter terrain around Lourdes, Tarbes, and heading out from Bagnères-de-Bigorre are our favourite spots for spinning out the legs between big mountain days.
Favourite Rest Day Spot and Bakery
Every boulangerie along the road seems to deliver fantastic bread and pastries, but the picturesque town of Bagnères-de-Bigorre became our go-to sanctuary on rest days. Famous for its thermal spas, marble, and past as an aristocratic retreat for French nobility and royalty, it is the perfect place to linger. Our home-spot is Café des Thermes. It has good coffee, exceptional pastries, the cutest semi-resident cat, and a wonderful, welcoming waitress who always made us feel right at home, and as though we spoke perfect French.
Camping Spots & A Gem of B&B
We spend about 90% of our time wild camping in our mini-camper conversion, aka Adventurecoche. Nothing beats waking up to the sunrise at the top of a mountain, surrounded by nothing but the quiet chiming of cow and sheep bells. We absolutely love the tranquility and simplicity of it all. Camping high on the slopes of Hautacam was probably our most loved mountain sleeping experience. Waking up above the cloud line as the sun touches the peaks is something that stays with you long after the trip ends.
On the days when both we and our devices need an extra recharge, or with rain on the horizon, we look for a proper base to stay. Our favourite so far is the quiet valley floor near Saint-Lary-Soulan at Hi Pyrenees. We discovered it on this trip and couldn't recommend it enough if you appreciate an authentic, high-ceilinged mansion, local animals, honest organic food, and wonderful mountain views. All while keeping things relaxed and giving you easy access to the big climbs.
Riding up iconic mountain passes like the Tourmalet makes everyone feel genuinely welcomed - a spirit that deeply aligns with what we value at Label Collective. On those roads, you see children climbing up alongside their grandfather, pros passing by, trans-continental contenders loaded with heavy bike setups, and the newest high-end frames blending right in with the oldest bikes. It is truly a beautiful, shared experience.
Beyond the technical numbers and iconic summits, these mountains offer a grounding perspective on why we ride. Every pass reminds us that the best journeys aren't defined by status or speed, but by shared moments, pristine landscapes, and a simple respect for the road. Pack your bags, leave no trace, and write your own story out there.
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